All grains contain peptides that mimic morphine or endogenous opioid substances. This is where I deal with my latest loaf craving. Get your bread-based exorphin fix here.

Showing posts with label tartine bread. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tartine bread. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Whole Wheat Integrale with Carmelized Onion



Whole Wheat Integrale with Carmelized Onion

I work as a nurse on the palliative care unit of a nearby tertiary care hospital.  At the end of shift a short while ago a patient asked me what I would be doing on my day off.

I told her that I was going home to bake some bread.  "I've been baking my own sourdough bread for some time now," I told her with a shrug.

She smiled and nodded gravely, as if it all made perfect sense now. 

"Ah," she said.  "the staff of life."

This woman is no longer with us.  But I remain haunted by what she said. 

Perhaps it really is this simple: why I am so obsessed with baking bread.  All day long I work with death, I hold the hands of the dying, my arms are around those who are grieving.  When I come home, I breathe deeply, and let it all slip away: thoughts of mortality, fleeting time, the empty question-mark of death, and the endless chasm of loneliness left in the wake of love forever more unrequited -- I surrender it all.

I plunge my hands into the mystery of basic ingredients: grains, water, salt: the lower number elements of the periodic table.  Something here is alive, something here is transformed anew, something here is resurrected.  I awaken again to the mystery of life.


Caramelized Onions
One of my coworkers made some wraps with caramelized onions for a Thanksgiving potluck the other day, and it gave me the idea to try them in a bread.  The Tartine Bread book talks a little bit about caramelizing onions for a brioche hamburger bun dough.  I just wanted to add them to my everyday Tartine Integrale bread.  I had a couple of medium-large onions, but one of them had a significant bad spot, so I ended up with a mere 1 1/2 onions, diced.






They were caramelized over med-low heat in olive oil for about an hour or more, and then I cooled them between some paper-towels for 30 minutes before adding them to the 80% hdrated Tartine 100% whole wheat integrale dough.  I also added a quarter cup each of pumpkin and sunflower seeds.  It was turned q30min for 4 hours, then I plunked it in a basket to proof for a couple of hours.








This was the first time I've used my new Baking stone.  It's been a long time since I used a stone, and I had the oven too hot.  I had preheated to 500 degrees F and forgot to turn it down for the actual baking.  And the one loaf that I did remember to turn it to 450 degrees F, was still a bit overdone at 40 minutes. 

Results
So my crust is a little burnt.  And the loaves are a bit misshapen.

C'est le vie.




Actually, even the darkest bread tastes quite all right.  Maybe it is the onions, or the oil they were caramelized in, combining with the dough: perhaps thereby the Maillard reaction is intensified. The roasted nature of the onions and grains imparts more flavour and scent.  Not a bad bread, for all that.  I will eat the darker loaf, and give the other one to my friends.

Take it and eat: the staff of life.

Notes to Myself
  • Try a temperature of 425 degrees F for the same amount of time and see if the loaf improves.  Alternatively, you could pull the bread out of the oven after 35 minutes.
  • More steam might be required.  I have been using a hot pan with a glass full of water at the moment the bread is introduced to the oven, but perhaps spritzing water would be a good idea for the first 10-12 minutes too, to keep things very moist.  Others use water-soaked towels in the pan, and I might try that once too (if my wife doesn't mind me destroying yet another towel) 
  • Longer proofing for more airy crust.  This is quite all right the way it is, though.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Wild Yeast Garden Tomato Integral Bread



100% Whole Wheat Sourdough Garden Tomato Bread


Fast on the heels of the last Garden Tomato Bread, and while I was working all weekend and alone in the house over Thanksgiving, I was free to make a mess in the kitchen and use what limited time I had even when working 3x 12 hour shifts in a row to see if I could make a 100% Whole Wheat Garden Tomato Bread with my wild yeast. 

It was serendipitous.  At the last minute (late on Saturday), the nurses on our floor of the hospital decided to have a pot-luck on Sunday, and I was able to bake this bread on Sunday morning before heading off to work.  Thank goodness I had started making this bread on Friday night, because it takes about 3 days to make.

It meant a rather different schedule for the bread, lots of 12-14 hour retarding of the dough in odd places (even violating some of of Chad Robertson's Tartine Bread rules), but nevertheless it made for some tasty bread.

This time I made a typical Tartine-style bread, only I used my 100% whole wheat starter, and 100% whole wheat flour only (what Chad Robertson describes as an Integral).  There is no all purpose or bread flour in this bread.  I have hydrated it at 80%+ (75% to mix it up, with 5% extra to add the salt, paste, ginger, and seeds as before, plus whatever hydration the tomatoes bring), This time I used only 3 tomatoes.  I didn't squish the tomatoes down, so the tomato juice didn't get spread around quite as much as the last garden tomato bread I made.

The schedule:
Friday night, after work, @2030: refresh the sourdough, ensuring that you will have 200g of it ready to use in the morning (about 8 hours for this sourdough build).  Measure out the ingredients for the morning, since you'll be too pressed for time and sleep-groggy to do it properly in the morning.  Take a flashlight to the garden to collect the tomatoes and the herbs, since it is now dark when you leave and dark when you get home.  This time get a handful of nasturtiums too.




Saturday morning, before work @0500: mix the dough, giving it a 20 minute autolyse before adding the salt, paste, ginger, and seeds.  Turn it once 20 minutes later, then cover it and put it in the refrigerator to retard.  Forget it for 14 hours.




Saturday night @2030: get home from work, take the dough out of the fridge, let it rest a couple of hours to bring it to room temperature, then divide it and shape it and set it in baskets.  Put the covered baskets back into the fridge overnight, and fall asleep because you'll be getting up early.

 


Sunday morning: wake at @0450 and bake the bread: take the dough from the fridge, preheat the oven 20 minutes, and bake it 40 minutes.  Jump in the shower and then go, driving to work with a cooling loaf filling the car with fresh-baked bread scent.

Results
This was a good bread.   The crumb was mostly wide-crumbed, as a Tartine loaf is, but the very centre of the loaf had a couple of spots that were still a tiny bit moist.  I think that it could have used another 5-10 minutes of baking, but the crust was a gorgeous tawny, light-brown colour.  Overall, I was very pleased with this bread.



Few others appreciated it as much as I did.  As far as potlucks go, there was little else for me to eat, as I am a vegetarian: the store-bought pizzas, the home-made quiches and wraps all had meat or seafood on them.  So I ate my bread and some salads.  But few others ate my bread, from what I could tell.  I came home with half a loaf. 

You can taste the peppery flavour of the nasturtiums.  I love it.

Notes to Myself
  • I think that squeezing the tomatoes to get the hydration up is a better idea than using water and simply adding chunks of tomato. It spreads the tomatoey flavour around more. Next time I will again press the tomatoes through a sieve to get the liquid separate, rather than using (so much) water.
  • I have been using fine spelt flour for the lining of the proving baskets, and this seems to work as nicely as rice flour.
  • The double retarding of the dough worked fine, even though Robertson says that the dough requires a long room-temperature bulk fermentation.  The final dough didn't seem overproofed to me. But probably it would have been a bit better if I had been able to bring it to room temperature a tiny bit longer than 20 minutes. Say, an hour?
  • Most people other than me prefer a bit of all-purpose or bread flour in their bread.  I love whole wheat, whole grain, best, and will continue to bake to ensure I get it.  Just look at all the vitamins and minerals and fiber and oil you lose when you use a more processed flour!  And don't forget, you get less exorphins...

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Spelt and Light Rye loaves for Others' Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving Loaves for Family
Good, Better, Best:
Let us never rest
Until our good is better
And our better best.
  • My Grandmother, who will be 102 yrs old this year
    (reciting a rhyme she learned in public school)

Here are a couple of everyday breads made with my wild yeast.  I haven't used commercial yeast in quite a while now.  Why not?  Well, pick any one of several reasons: (1) I have the sourdough, so I might as well use it, (2) wild yeast tastes better, (3) it is healthier for me.

As usual, I am basing this spelt loaf on the Tartine technique, although you will look in vain for the recipe in the Tartine Bread book.  I think the Rye bread is actually the Rye Bread recipe from Tartine; it uses all purpose flour, and my intention is to give it away.  It is Canadian Thanksgiving this weekend.  Of course, I have to work, but my wife is meeting with my son, and so I hope he gets one of these loaves to take home with him.  Since it has rye in it, it theoretically should keep slightly longer.


My wife wanted a slice for her lunch, so I've had a look at the crumb.  Her verdict: no good for honey.


A. The Spelt Loaf
  • 200g starter, made with spelt
  • 650g water + 50g water later
  • 200g barley flour
  • 600g spelt flour
  • 200g ww flour
  • 20g salt

B. The Rye Loaf
  • 630g ap flour
  • 200g ww flour
  • 170g rye flour
  • 700g water + 100g water later
  • 100g cracked wheat
  • 20g salt


I have been wondering if my bread baking is getting any better.  How do you compare the bread you are eating now to the bread you ate a week ago, a month ago, a year ago?  Yet the mind has the faculty of discrimination: we can place two images beside each other and choose the best of the two, whether that image is a literal photographic image, or an imagined image or a memory of an actual loaf.  We can compare.  And like everything else in the real world, we must choose.

Skip the rest of this if you just want the usual bread info.  There's not much more bread info from here on in.  It is all segue to 'Back to Bread'.


Political Scale: a quick lesson
Many years ago, when he was very young, I offered to my young son a quick and dirty explanation of the linear scale that popular media uses to differentiate political parties.  We often hear the terms "Right wing policies" or "On some issues he leans to the Left".  This scale is not taught in school, evidently.  We pick it up by osmosis because everybody uses it.  But it really isn't all that useful, as it tends to gloss the reality, which is complicated.  Nevertheless, it can certainly show you when and where the media has become overly simplistic.  On the eve of another Provincial Election, I am reminded of this scale again.  With three main political parties in Canada (Conservatives, Liberals, and the New Democratic Party), this scale has become a sort of short-hand:

<------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------>
                                      |                                |                                |
                                         NDP                    Liberal                Conservative

As I told my son about this scale, I also gave him a little family history lesson.  His mother's family came from Germany, and to understand why they came to Canada, one had to know something of German politics and how it affected everyday life there.  Just prior to the advent of the second world war, Germany was still reeling under the weight of reparation payments following the first world war.  In an attempt to alleviate the plight of the ordinary people, the German populace used their democracy to try everything they could think of: right wing, left wing, and everything in between.  When the conservative parties were not far enough right, they looked to fascists; when the union parties were not far enough left, they looked to communists.  The ideological rifts that occurred plunged the world into another world war, and physically divided the entire country for more than a generation.

And the recent history of Canadian politics can also be written on this simplistic linear scale: in the 80's and early 90's, the conservative government of Brian Mulroney moved toward the liberal centre of the scale, squeezing the liberals and achieving successive majority governments for the conservative party.  Unfortunately, this alienated some of the long-time members of the conservative party, who actually splintered off from the main conservative political party and formed their own "Reform" party, particularly in the west.  When the Liberal party came back even stronger and pushed the conservative party back toward the right, the old conservative party was crushed and obliterated.  The current conservative party is built largely on the ashes of Mulroney's legacy, with a good smattering of Reform.  But they have grown stronger again, largely due to the lack of leadership of the Liberals.

In practice, most people in Canada are not card-carrying members of any one political party.  They like some things about the NDP: for example, our universal health care (an idea that came from the heart of Tommy Douglas, one in a long line of excellent NDP leaders that Canadians love but do not elect to the highest position (the latest being Jack Layton, may he Rest In Peace.)).  But they also like the basic idea of the conservative parties -- that is, keep ownership private, and keep the government out of our business.  What this means is, most people are liberal in practice: we like our services, we just don't want to be the ones who pay for it.  It's not always the most realistic choice, but we do tend to gravitate toward the middle, like a bell curve.

We call ourselves a democracy, but we don't get a personal vote on every issue.  We really have to choose a single person to represent us in government, and they are always affiliated with a political party, and we take a lot of baggage we don't necessarily want, along with the personality.

But I really don't want to talk so much about politics and my oversimplification of it.  what I really wanted to talk about was the idea of a scale.

ESAS
In palliative care in Canada, we regularly use a scale that was developed in Edmonton to assess the needs of our patients.  The Edmonton Symptom Assessment Scale (ESAS) would have a person assign a number, between 0 an 10, to some symptom or quality in their life.  When first introduced to this scale, many people have difficulty wrapping their head around the concept.  Rarely do we ever associate a quantity (the number you are asked to choose) with a quality (usually something fairly nebulous and not well-defined, like a subjective feeling).  For example, right now, try this:  on a scale of 0 to 10, 0 being the best possible quality of life, and 10 being the worst quality of life, where would your quality of life fall on this number line?

Many things affect your quality of life.  If I asked this right after you stubbed your toe, you might, between hopping around holding your foot and cursing, give your life a quality rating of 7, or 8.  Or if I asked this of you just before you nodded off to sleep after the greatest sex of your life, you might mumble 1, or 2 (it wouldn't be 0, because I would be pissing you off, annoying you about assigning a number when you really just want to fall asleep in the rainbow afterglow...).

ESAS attempts to measure a lot of different symptoms that always seem to pop up in end-of-life care:  pain, tiredness, nausea, depression, anxiety, drowsiness, appetite, wellbeing, shortness of breath, and other.  The "Other" category is for patients to define their own category that is important to them.  You can then use these scales to plot any given symptom or category at any given time, to see the changes that have occurred using a chart like this.  Obviously if a person categorizes their pain at a 3 or greater, we have to make an intervention, and deal with it.

On the other hand, I am concerned about the over-use of such scales, because I believe that placing attention on pain certainly ensures that pain will be experienced.  A study has been done that suggests talking about pain increases pain.  In other words, when I ask a patient if they are experiencing pain, they experience it...so how do I assess them, if as we are taught in nursing school, 'pain is what the patient says it is'?

Quantified Self Scales
Every since I have skim-read Douglas Hubbarrd's book "How to Measure Anything - finding the value of 'intangibles' in business", I have been interested in scales that quantify what are essentially subjective qualities.

I have been a closet follower now for some time of the Quantified Self website, interested in how people put together their independent self-studies, and curious as to what sorts of things they are interested in.  A lot of fascinating people are using tools they have invented that are similar to ESAS, in order to examine quantitatively how they feel about various things.  Just a few recent examples:

Ari Meisel - curing the incurable through self-experimentation
Ari cured himself of Crohn's disease by self-monitoring of his experiments related to diet and fitness.  In this short video of his talk he casually mentions a ton of computerized tracker devices and software that he tried.

Robin Barooah - "I am broken, or I can learn"
Robin used a much simpler binary process of attending to what he ate and how it made him feel three hours later, and ended up losing 45 pounds.  It was apparently enough to place the attention on how he felt (energized or lethargic?) to awaken the unconscious mind to deal with the issues of his weight.

Roger Craig "Knowledge Tracking"
Using a lot of web-based tools he wrote himself, using text-mining, a Jeopardy Q-A database, and various mathematical tools to improve his answering ability, Roger went on the Jeopardy show and kicked ass.

There are tons of other examples.  Check them out.


Emotional Connoisseur
My friend and I have had a recent conversation about how he and his wife trained their girls to describe their emotional life with a rich vocabulary.  Their intention was to provide the girls with a more refined ability to experience their emotions, by more carefully naming the affective states.  You teach a child the parts of the body by pointing to their "head and shoulders, knees and toes"; but as they grow, they may need to learn more exacting terms for the body parts: scapula, uvula, antecubital.
But what about our emotions?  Mostly we learn the basic terms, and you know when you feel sad, happy, angry.  To quote my friend:


A person, after all, who understands that something can be moving, touching, poignant, bittersweet, crushing, haunting, unsettling, depressing, etc., could have a richer, deeper experience in life, say, that someone whose only word to describe these things is "sad."  A person who understands that something might be exhilarating, liberating, joyous, triumphant, empowering, satisfying, etc., etc., could have a richer experience in life than someone whose only word for these things is "good."

And that brought to mind this short comic by xkcd, which suggests that we can become connoisseurs of almost anything.
See the original cartoon on xkcd
Randall Munroe, the cartoonist of xkcd always includes a "hover message" -- if you hover the mouse over the cartoon, an editorial line shows briefly.  The editorial line for this cartoon says, "Our brains have just one scale, and we resize our experiences to fit."

I was thinking about that, and about how some of our perceived scales are actually naturally logarithmic.  Take a look at this video (Vi and Sal Explore How We Think About Scale/ How Humans Perceive Nonlinearity) that I found to understand what I mean.

Before Freud, no one paid any attention to the unconscious mind.  Things seem to be invisible to us until we can name them -- whether it be the recently discovered (?but still unconfirmed) neutrino that travels at hyperlight speeds, or the rarest emotion that humans can experience (Lets call it Self Actualization, after Maslow, even if that is not exactly or merely an affective state).

The point I am making: what is going on, really, deeply, wholly, inside of us, or outside of us, that we are not aware of?  How do we name it, how do we quantify it, how do we study it?

 
Back to Bread
I have, for the past couple of years, been blogging about every single bread I've made.  Some have been absolute disasters, some have been very good indeed.  I think I've been getting a bit better at baking bread, but this is a very difficult thing to measure as it involves a whole lot of different metrics, not to mention different types of bread for different purposes.  I probably would have to develop my own personal "bread tracking scale," for my own personal use.  But what should I be tracking?  The more data, the more one can play with the numbers; but too much data, and all you get is noise, and you can't really make sense of it. 

There are things that you would expect that would be on such a scale:  grain, hydration, ferment, taste, crust, crumb, aroma, healthfulness, shelf-life, appearance, shape, etc.

Still, it makes sense that I should be elevating my experience of bread to the same level of language as the connoisseur of wines.  Things like mouthfeel, aftertaste, the layers of flavour -- these are all things that can be named, scaled, refined.  What other things are measurable?



Notes to Myself
  • Learn what scales already exist for the description of bread, and dough, and flours. Probably this has already been done. What about the rules of every fall fair where people enter their bread to be judged? What are the criteria? This should give you an idea of how judging is done.
  • Do you have enough info on each bread that you have blogged about to determine which bread you have made is the best?

Thursday, September 29, 2011

ww, quinoa, spelt and rye raisin walnut bread



ww, quinoa, spelt and rye raisin walnut bread

Ah, walnuts.  It is that time of year again, when the fragrant nuts are falling.  I find them underfoot when I'm out walking the dog.  The bruised green husks are drying up, or rotting.  I lift the odd one to my nose and inhale the scent.  Careful: don't let the husk actually touch your nose, or it will paint your nose brown.  And brown is not typically a great colour for noses.

I have fond memories of collecting bags full of walnuts for my father-in-law.  He would, every fall, plant some in an effort to get some of the seedlings to grow.  He loved working with walnut wood, and planted trees that he knew he would not live to harvest.  Usually the biggest problem was the squirrels, who followed right behind him and dug up the nuts.  One year we tried placing a screen over where we had buried the nuts, but the squirrels dug right through it.  It never deterred him from trying again the next year.

There is a Canadian animated short film that made the rounds many long years ago, that deeply affected me, and reminds me of my father-in-law: The Man who Planted Trees, based on the short story by Jean Giono.

The actual movie "The Man Who Planted Trees" can be watched online here

Synopsis: An old man carefully selects a number of nuts every day before his walk, and places each of them in a hole in the ground.  After decades of unending toil, the groves that result provide recreation and joy for many humans and animals. 

My brother-in-law, a graduate of Guelph Agricultural University, says that the film is utterly implausible.  But that never stopped him from planting walnuts with his father, nor from transplanting some of the seedlings that did grow, nor from working with walnut wood himself.

With every bite of this walnut-filled bread, I will remember my father-in-law as the man who planted walnut trees.

Here are the numbers for this raisin walnut bread, in percentages.  Walnuts and raisins are given in grams.

  • ww 50
  • quinoa 20
  • spelt 20
  • rye 10
  • wild yeast @100% hydration 20
  • salt 1.9
  • water 75
  • walnuts 107g (11)
  • raisins 185g (19)
  • golden flax seeds (a sprinkling)

Method: A la' Tartine: i.e. mix dough, let it rest and then add salt and 5% of the water.  Fold during bulk fermentation x 3 hours, Q30min.  Add walnuts and raisins on 2nd turn.  Divide, bench rest, then form and proof in baskets overnight in fridge.  Bake 40 minutes in an Iron Dutch Oven at 450 degrees, the first half with the lid on.



Results
This dough was a pleasure to work with.  It seemed really slack at first, but it was silky-gooey.  I wondered if it was the quinoa that was so sticky on my fingers.  But I wet my hands with water at each turn, and it helped.  Indeed, as the bulk fermentation progressed, the gooeyness ceased, the gluten strengthened and the dough became somewhat firmer.  The feel from beginning to end was substantially different.




The taste is great.  Strange how the crust was so much improved by just a few of those golden flax seeds on the top.  They add a distinct toasted flavour, and offset the sweetness of the loaf's raisins in the crisp crust.  The walnuts add something special -- of course, they turn the surrounding dough purple (you can't detect it so much in the digital photos, unfortunately).  This is just how many walnuts there were in a small package that I bought at a local store: there is really no need to fill the bread up with so many nuts you taste walnuts in every bite, as in the official Tartine bread that contains walnuts.  Who needs too much juglone anyway?

A very nice bread indeed.  There are lots of different textures here to consider as you chew.  I like it with cheese, or with nothing but a little butter.  It toasts well too.



Notes to Myself

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

A couple of whole wheat and "00" breads

 
Whole wheat and "00" breads

I had some "00" flour that I bought on a whim when I was last in Ottawa, and I decided to make a Tartine country loaf with it for my sweetie, with 70% "00" and 30% whole wheat flours; but I also made a couple of loaves for myself, with 70% whole wheat, and 30% "00" flour.  I've added salt at the first turn, and at the second turn, I've added 80g of Sesame Seeds (unlike the official Tartine sesame bread, I haven't toasted the sesames).  So the two breads, in terms of ingredients, are somewhat symmetrical.  I'm using a kg of each flour, its just that each dough is lopsided to the different end of the whole grain equation.

I became curious about the"00" flour as I used it, and did a bit of research on it.  It is as fine as talc, and it has a protein percentage of 9.5%.  I found it kind of expensive, but I bought it just to see what it was like.




It comes to us in Canada from Italy, from the Divella company (google-translated here).  The Divello family started the company about 120 years ago in Rutogliano, a central city in Apulia.  The Apulian region is the breadbasket of Italy, where Durham wheat has long been grown.  It was here in 1890 that Francesco Divella, a wheat trader, decided to build the first of his Durum wheat mills.  About a decade later, he also built the first of his pasta factories.  Today, the company is run by another Divello (a fourth generation Divello: is he also named Francesco?  or is it Vincenzo?), who is the great grandson of the company's founder.  In addition to flour, and 140 different pastas, the company processes a great deal of vegetables that go great with pasta, and now they have begun to make biscuits and cookies.  The company is not publicly traded.  It remains in the family.  It's motto is "Quality above all." 

In terms of Italian pasta manufacturers, Divello is nowhere near the largest.  It has captured only 6.5% of the Italian market.  But they have grown through exports, and now they are in 80 countries around the world, and their cash-flow is respectable at 300 million Euros per annum.  That pales when you place it beside the larger pasta manufacturers of Italy of course: Barilla, founded in 1877, now handles 4.2 billion Euros annually and sits in the number one position; following on its heals are Buitoni, founded in 1827 in Tuscany, and DeCecco, founded in 1886. Like the rest, Voiello was also started as a family-owned and operated business; but now Barilla owns it. And Buitoni is now owned by Nestles.

Divello is quite proud of its product.  They are passionate about pasta, and concerned about using the best ingredients and methods for it.  And Italians in general are proud of their long tradition with pasta.  They are quick to point out that Marco Polo did not bring pasta back with him from China, that there is evidence that it was already here before he got back.  But the time-margins of that evidence are slim, and it seems clear that China had it long before Italy.  It is simply that Italy perfected it, using their local ingredients.  Now, the famous Mediterranean diet is intriguing the world with its healthy properties.  The Italian diet wasn't always so healthy, as the book "Garlic and Oil: Food and Politics in Italy" by Carol Helstosky points out.  But the efforts of companies like Divello seem to have made an impact.  I gather that Francesco Divella has also delved into politics (he is a congressman in the FLI party -- which seems to be somewhat of a right-wing reaction to the Berlusconi scandals, and an attempt to put ethics back into politics.  The FLI has only been around since Feb 2011, and as of now it seems as if its future as a party is still in flux).  Helstosky points out that political will has been necessary to change the diet of Italians for the better, too.

I found it interesting to learn that the Apulian region no longer grows enough Durham wheat to feed Italy -- so Italy is now a net importer of grain.  I believe they get some from Canada, and some from the U.S., and they mix it all together to make their flour a standard quality.

Results

The 70% Whole Wheat and 30% "00" dough worked up easily and the bread  tastes great.






The 70% "00" flour, with 30% Whole Wheat made a really nice crumb, and tasted fine too.  It was a hit with friends and family that I gave it to.






Notes to Myself
  • While making this bread, and thinking about pasta, and using the "00" flour, it got me curious about making pasta from my own sourdough. My first attempts were disastrous, but I may learn enough to eventually blog about it.  Here is my starting point for the next attempt.
  • What is the first thing that one thinks about when one hears about a successful, family-owned, world-wide Italian business? I'm afraid that the first thing that comes to my mind is the Mafia. (Or rather, as the Apulian version of the crime network is known, "Sacra Corona Unita",  or SCU )

    The fact that the Divello family is by all appearances religious (as the article in "Famiglia Cristiana" (Google translation here) shows) is not immediately going to change my first impression of a successful Italian company -- after all, there is a religious element to the SCU as well.

    I have no evidence that this company is involved in organized crime. But one wonders how an agricultural processing business could become successful in that time and region without encountering the SCU, or rubbing shoulders with it somewhere along the line. I would imagine a business such as Divello would attract organized crime, if for no other reason than that Divello could easily handle some of its smuggling.  But this is all pure conjecture on my part.

    I found only a brief mention of Divella in a news article regarding price fixing (going back to 2007), but using Google Translate I can only get a glimpse of the lawsuits that took place. It seems, however, that Divella was accused, along with 29 other Italian pasta companies, of price fixing.  Divella was the only company that launched a counter suit against the Competition Authority (presumably because its good name was besmirched?) but apparently it lost the case.

    It is a shame that I have immediately drawn the conclusion of the stereotype.  It is a shame that I did not simply think that the secret of Divello's success is hard work, investment in appropriate technology and a quality product.  It seems that Divello really
    is working hard, world-wide, to change that stereotype of the Italian Mafioso with all the smuggling and money laundering that goes with it -- the first thing that leapt to my mind.  Divello is exporting a quality product, which should eventually change the stereotype, drawn from fear, of the Mafia -- Italy's infamous export.  For that, I will give Divello credit, and until proved otherwise, the benefit of the doubt.  Good luck, Divello!

Thursday, September 22, 2011

ww, rye and flaxmeal bread



ww, rye and flaxmeal bread

Here is a Tartine-style bread, that is made with 70% whole wheat, 30% rye, with some extra flaxmeal tossed in (about 0.5%).  The crust also has some flaxmeal.  The hydration of the bread is 80%.  Flax seed is seeing a surge of interest lately with the new nutritional finding of the importance of Omega-3 fatty acids in our diet.  Flax needs to be ground into flour or meal though, to get the benefit of its nutrition, or the tiny seeds will pass through the intestines without unpacking its goodness.  Here I've just added the meal into a regular whole wheat and rye bread to see what it would taste like.



Genetically Modified Flax Anyone?
Once again I would like to draw everyone's attention to Genetically Modified Objects in our food supply.  The wiki on flax describes a GM flax called Triffid, which was grown in Canada (as late as 2001), although never commercially, and it is no longer grown.  Nevertheless, some of this GM flax still somehow finds its way into the flax that is targeted for export.  This causes problems for the flax industry when European importers reject it out of hand.

Wheat growers and marketing boards should heed the lesson.  And so far, they have.  But we are continuously bombarded with news that various groups are interested in trials of GM wheat.  I try to follow some of the arguments for and against transgenic wheat and report on it in the transgenic wheat wiki, in what I hope is a balanced way.  Because I have personally heavily edited that page, I have become interested in any GM food that is introduced into our food supply.  Currently in Canada we have GM rape and soy (without much fanfare and not nearly enough discussion, I must say). I personally would like our wheat to remain uncontaminated by GMO.  On the other hand, I am not opposed to continuing some contained experimentation on GM wheat.  I really think that we have to learn far more about it before releasing it into our food chain or into our environment, though.  And we won't learn much about it without experimentation.

I think it would be a good idea to learn what there is currently in wheat (likely as a result of Norman Borlaug's influence) that has caused the increase in wheat allergies over the last few decades.  There may even be a way to get rid of it with transgenic methods! Would that be a good thing?  Hmm.

If something as small as the difference between Omega-3 and Omega-6 oils can make such a big difference in our health, and we've only just learned about it, what else do we not yet know about, in terms of human nutrition?  We're still just scratching the surface and learning about what is safe and what is not.

Incidentally, have a look at this interesting TED video: Robyn O'brien (author of "The Unhealthy Truth") gives a TED talk in Texas.  While she doesn't specifically mention wheat, she does target milk and corn and soy as foods that have had their proteins tinkered with, and are likely causing increased allergies and maybe even cancers.  With California currently proposing labeling laws for GMO in our food, her concerns and story as a mother are noteworthy.  Who wouldn't want to know what they are eating?  Who is behind the move NOT to label GMO foods?  I am on the side that says more information is a good thing.  Even if labeling is not legislated, if producers of GM foods really are proud of what they are doing, and think it is good for the consumer, they would label it even without legislation.  The fact that they want to sneak it by the consumer shows me that they simply don't have the health and welfare of the consumer at heart.  And if the government bows to the pressure of the industry instead of sticking up for the consumer, they too should be held accountable.  We need to know what we're eating.  Whatever Californians decide, the rest of the continent will soon follow.  Lobbyists already have a web site (that is where I found the Robyn O'Brien video).

While I can't prove it, nevertheless I believe that the bread I make myself is safer and healthier than the processed and well-traveled bread that I can buy.  Here is a link to the page that I sometimes fiddle with, that deals with some of the nutrition findings and questions about grains in our diet.  Someday I should clean it up, elaborate it and give some footnotes.

Crust:
Crumb:




Bread Results
The top of the loaf, coated with a bit of the flax meal, gives it a glittery sheen that reminds me of mica.  Curious.

This bread stales quickly.  It is slightly bitter, which not everyone is going to like.  If you like coffee, you can probably get used to this bread (what I mean is, it is bitter the way coffee can be bitter).  For everyday use, I think I would add some honey or malt to this bread in the future.

Notes to Myself