All grains contain peptides that mimic morphine or endogenous opioid substances. This is where I deal with my latest loaf craving. Get your bread-based exorphin fix here.

Showing posts with label brioche. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brioche. Show all posts

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Professional Help for the Exorphin Junkie #2

Bread Making Course Results, Day 2

We've had our second and final breadmaking class at the nearby college (see the first class here).  Just like last time, we made four different doughs.  Just like last time, they were all bread flour, or all-purpose flour breads.  Not my kind of bread, but a fun day out nevertheless.

My biggest question prior to arrival was, "how is she going to teach us the sourdough?"  Sourdough needs to be prepared.  How would that fit into our chef's philosophy of production kitchen, straight dough methods?

In a nutshell: Chef Stephanie came prepared.  She had elaborated her mother starter all week long, and brought in a huge tub of it for us all to take some.  We each took 2 cups, and there was still lots left over.

Today we all paired off and afterward split the booty.  While I put together the ingredients for the Sourdough bread, my wife made up the dough for the Lavender Brioche.  Later in the day, she made up the Honey-Oat Bread (only, she used organic molasses instead of honey), and I mixed the Ciabatta dough.  Incidentally, that Ciabatta also used a starter (chef called it a sponge), and there was a giant tub of that, too, for all of us to dip into to use.

Just like the last time, I post the recipes here for those who are curious.  I probably won't be using these recipes again myself, unless I am going to try making them with whole grains. 

Sourdough Bread

This was not exactly a wild yeast sourdough.  Chef has been keeping this starter alive since last summer, feeding it weekly or replenishing it as she uses it, but it was originated from commercially obtained active dry yeast.  Nothing wrong with that.  I'm just saying.




We used 2 cups of her Starter in our Main Dough.  The curious thing about this bread is that, in addition to the starter, it calls for vinegar and baking soda.  This dough didn't seem to want to rise at all in the proofer.  But once it went into the oven, the spring was substantial.  Too much, in fact.  Chef warned us that this would happen, due to the baking soda.

The loaf on the left was brushed with an eggwhite wash; the loaf on the right was brushed with water -- both prior to baking.  You can see where the wash ends, and how much it rose, from the bottom of the tray.  Like it wanted to lift off like a rocket.



Lavender Brioche

This is a very enriched dough.  As Chef Stephanie put it, "not the healthiest loaf, but you will die happy.  This is decadent."

The lavender is infused in the milk ahead of time (again, Chef came prepared, and we all used her lavender-infused milk).  The lavender gets sifted out.  It just imparts a mild flavour and scent to the milk, most of which is lost, frankly, when you go to eat it.  But the idea of infusing the fluid that hydrates your bread (be it water or milk or juice) with herbs really got our imaginations going.  What if we infused it with cinnamon?  Cardomon?  Ginger?  What other taste could we "infuse" into our bread via the hydration?  Clearly, there is an infinite room for experimentation here.  But again, just how much do you actually taste in the final product?

We ate a couple of the brioche buns that we put on the fluted tins, and felt that despite all the enrichment, it still needed something.  "Surely not more butter," I said.  "There is a ton of butter in it already."  Luckily, my wife had brought some trail mix with her, and she tossed that in some of the dough.  The raisins and nuts complemented this nicely.  She was already thinking of using this dough for an Easter loaf.

Lavender gets sifted out



I think we had a double batch of the brioche for some reason

Honey Oat Bread (but made with Molasses)


We had this for lunch when we got home.  Meh.

Ciabatta

This is the big tub of sponge that Chef brought in for us all to share.

We were supposed to make smaller ciabatta, even smaller than the ones I made.  They probably should have been called ciabattini, or ciabatta rolls.  This dough is tricky to work with, it is so gooey.  But mine rose a bit during the proofing stage, and it had some nice oven spring.

I had the distinct sense that I didn't "own" these breads, though, because I had not made the Starter myself.



Results:

This was the haul we had when we laid it out on the kitchen table when we got home:

While this was a fun class to take, I can't say that I really learned all that much about bread making in it.  We received 8 total recipes, and we now know ways to mix by hand and machine; we know a couple of basic shapes for bread; and we know the feel of several different doughs.  No one can expect more from 10 hours of class time.  I got no more, and no less, out of this class than I expected.  Well, I guess I expected more teaching on how to shape loaves, and we didn't get that.  But I am not disappointed.

The Proofer.  This machine sees a lot of use, with 25 students waiting on doughs to rise.

Our corner of the kitchen, right in front of the two convection ovens.
There might be the odd crumb shot picture I will add to this blog entry, if I feel like it.

Right now I'm just a little sleepy, and hope to have a short nap.  Postprandial Bread Narcolepsy, no doubt.

By the way, I don't get this crashing feeling when I eat whole grains.

Notes to Myself
  • Temperatures given in the recipes are for CONVECTION ovens; for other ovens, the temperature needs to be 20-25 degrees HIGHER than what the recipe says.
  • The Sourdough bread contains vinegar to boost the acidity, not for the yeast, but for the baking soda to work.
  • Notes on brioche: when scalding milk, before you put the milk in the pot, first fill it with water and simply rinse the pot.  This will help prevent your milk from being a messy pot cleanup.

    If you are going to make an Easter loaf with brioche dough, add your raisins right at the very end of mixing the dough.

    The Brioche dough is made not with bread flour, but with all-purpose flour; you could even use cake flour in the recipe (up to about 1/2 the quantity of flour).  Here, what makes it rise so well is not so much the gluten strands trapping the yeast gases, but the emulsifying of the eggs and other fat in the recipe.

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Pumpkin Brioche Pomegranate Buns



Pumpkin Brioche Pomegranate Buns

I bought some pears a couple of days ago to make what looks like a great glazed pear and pomegranate tart tatin, by Zoe (one half of the original 'Artisan Bread in 5 Minutes a Day' people).  But my wife ate 5 of the 6 pears that I bought.  I guess I wasn't quick enough using them.

And I had to use up the brioche, because it is starting to get old --although there is still a bit more to play with, in the fridge.  Oh, and I had those pomegranate seeds that I got ready for the recipe (even though I no longer had the pears).  So I made these, while the oven was preheating for some other breads I was baking today.

I just tore off some of the brioche dough, rolled it up and stuck it in an oiled muffin tin, then sprinkled some pomegranate seeds on top.

Baked at 450 degrees F, for about 25 minutes.



They taste okay, but they could have been baked a bit longer.

Notes to Myself
  • Bake everything at least 10 minutes longer than recipes call for: your oven just doesn't perform the way it should
  • Try baking the pomegranate seeds inside the brioche dough, so they don't dry out.

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls


Pumpkin Brioche Cinnamon Rolls

I first made these Pumpkin Cinn. Rolls from scratch just over a year ago, and liked them enough to try them again.  This time, although I still enjoyed the taste of the pumpkin seeds and the interesting spices, I was not fond of the amount of sugar, nor the starchiness of the all purpose flour that gets used.  I suppose my tastes have changed.  I ended up giving away the buns.  Links to what I did with my old Jack-o-lantern pumpkin:


Starting from Scratch: Obtaining the pumpkin puree

Pumpkin that I would be roasting and pureeing
 The innards are set aside for the chickens to eat
 Cut it in half and pour in some water
 The seeds are great roasted.  I just ate these as a snack, although last time I put them in the buns.
 Roasted Jack

 Now I've got my puree -- enough for a week of soup plus enough for the brioche


Brioche

The instructions for the brioche were given for a mixer.  I was using my hands, and the danger here I suppose is that the ingredients will not stay cold enough to mix properly due to the warmth of the hands.  But everything gets refrigerated afterward anyway.   I can't say that I have any facility with brioche dough.  Most of my brioche doughs have been failures, and I'd have to say this one was too.

Mis en place

Start adding ingred together


before adding the sugar

The sugar gets added and kneaded a little at a time until incorporated
I cut the butter in with a pastry cutter
To incorporate the butter I just flattened it all against the counter repeatedly

There were still a few butter blobs

It rests for an hour, then I kneaded/smeared it again until the butter was all (I thought) incorporated
what a sticky mess

Now you refrigerate it for 12 hours


Making the Buns

There is a lot of brioche, and you only need 750g of it to make the cinnamon rolls.  The rest of the ingredients are shown here as I begin to build the buns.

Mis en place 2


The Pepita Cream

I used a couple of machines to make this pumpkin seed cream, which is what really makes these buns tasty.  Here I use a food processor, and then a kitchen hand mixer.

Pulverize the Pepitas and sugars to make the cream

This is what makes the wonderful taste of these rolls: the pepita flour

Butter is creamed


Eggs & vanilla added: I did this out of order, be careful next time

Icing sugar goes in

This pepita cream gets refrigerated if you've made it ahead


Cinnamon Sugar and Pepita fillings

Mis en place 3


Cinnamon Sugar mix




I roasted the pepitas for about 4 minutes




Then the roasted seeds are gently pulverized, so half is floury, and half is crunchy whole




I weigh out 750g of the brioche I made the day before

I roll it out thinly.  Uh-oh, still some chunks of butter.


Close up of the texture: spices and butter blobs

The pepita cream really should have been room temperature to spread on this rolled out dough

With diligence and warm fingers you can spread it out

Brush on some water on the 1" margin you left on the short end

 Sprinkle on the cinnamon sugar
and spread out the cinnamon sugar evenly

Sprinkle on the roasted, cracked pepitas

And spread out those pepitas somewhat evenly




Roll up the log

Log ready to be cut into rolls


The rolls are to proof for 1 hour and 45 minutes

Did I have them in a spot that was too cool?  Not much rise, only sag.
 
Icing

This final sweet stuff really does make these buns a bit too sickly sweet.  But it probably wouldn't be recognizable as a cinnamon bun without it.

Mis en place 4

The icing

Baked

More sag.  No real rise here.

Not much to look at, right out of the oven


The rolls are drizzled with the icing while still warm (but not hot)




Results

A bit gooey.  Probably could have baked a bit longer.


Tastes okay, but it's not my taste any more.  Probably should have baked a bit longer.  

Give it away.

Notes to Myself
  • Learn how to handle brioche dough.  Read some more about it, and don't assume it is the same as bread dough.
  • Can you make a whole wheat version of these?
  • What about adding the ground pumpkin seeds and spices to a bread dough instead of a sweet dough?
  • Chances are you will make these again when next you have a jack o lantern pumpkin to use up.  Make sure that the buns are baked long enough.  Twenty minutes may not be long enough: try 25-30 minutes next time.