Tartine Style Pan Integrale
Chad Robertson's Tartine Bread calls it the holy grail. It does not give the recipe -- but then, it is far simpler than any recipe in the Tartine Bread book. Fewer ingredients, fewer steps. Too simple to speak of, perhaps. But Robertson hints that it is worth it.
It is a 100% whole wheat bread, with 100% whole wheat wild yeast starter, the only other ingredients being water and salt. Method is all.
This is my go-to bread. I make it when I need a touchstone, when I'm trying something new and want to compare it or when I've had enough of making different kind of breads, with unfamiliar ingredients, and want something simpler, something pure, something I know and feel comfortable with.
This bread is comfortable shoes.
I made this one in the midst of experimenting with my sandwich loaves. And I believe this loaf tastes better than those sandwich loaves. I gave one of these breads away, but this loaf disappeared faster than the sandwich loaves did, in our household. This is the bread you would reach for first. Even if it did sag a bit when it hit the dutch oven, and didn't see the same amount of rise that the sandwich loaf did.
I was surprised (again, always) by the way the holes in the crumb of this pan integrale developed such large irregular holes -- because the sandwich loaf that I made right beside it did not, and both had the same amount of turns, the same amount of time fermenting, the same amount of time proofing. The only thing different is the hydration, of the starter and the final dough.
But that, obviously, makes all the difference.
A good bread. Truly 'worth it.'
Notes to Myself
- Why do you suppose there are more large, irregular holes in this bread than in the sandwich loaf? Supposedly, if they both had the same turns, the gluten network would be the same, wouldn't it? Why then would the yeast leave such big blobs of carbon dioxide behind in this dough, and not the sandwich loaf? And the sandwich loaf saw a more dramatic rise than this one, despite the large irregular holes in this one. So it is not the carbon dioxide alone that raises the bread. There are mysteries here.